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The Best Patek Philippe Releases from Watches and Wonders 2024

April 16, 2024

A trio of watches with blue-gray dials steal the show.

This year, Patek Philippe released 11 new models, including an exclusive world time complication, novel Aquanaut and Nautilus variants, three Grand Complications, and a brand-new Golden Ellipse. While hardly revolutionary, the releases align with the strategic shifts the brand has made in the last few years; the preference for white gold over steel follows from the replacement of the 5711 with the 5811, and the use of more casual straps and dials continues what the trio of carbon inspired Calatravas started last year.

The World Time with Date 5330G

The 5330, descriptively named "World Time with Date," is the first world time watch to feature a date display synchronized with the local time. When the chosen local time is changed, the date will automatically correct itself by moving a day forward or backward. Patek Philippe unveiled the 5330 at an exhibition in Tokyo last year. That model was limited to 300 pieces for the Japanese market. This release sees the proprietary complication join the current collection.

The new piece features a 40mm white gold case housing the micro-rotor 240 HU C caliber. The highlight is the blue-gray dial, which features a central "carbon" pattern, 24-hour disk, and a ring of cities from around the globe. The local date is indicated with an unobstructive sapphire hand and 31-day disc around the perimeter of the dial. Notably, the matching calf leather strap has a very unique denim pattern. The dial color, carbon pattern, and unusual strap give the new release a surprisingly informal look. The 5330G retails for just above $76,000.

The Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980 Is Back

Patek Philippe discontinued several watches earlier this year. On the list of casualties was the entire 5980 family. Now that model is back, this time in an all-new white gold and blue-gray-dial configuration. The new model retains the combined 60-minute and 12-hour "monocounter" at six o'clock, 40.5mm by 11.2mm case, and Caliber CH 28-520 C. The main differences are the dial and strap.

While hardly revolutionary, the opaline blue-gray dial is a pleasant addition to the model. Like the band on the World Time with Date, the calfskin strap matches the dial color and features a denim pattern. Why Patek has chosen denim, a casual material not typically associated with luxury, for the straps of both of these models is unclear, though the releases certainly stand out because of it. The new 5980 will cost just under $79,000 at retail.

The White Gold Aquanaut 5164G with a Blue-Gray Dial

The 5164G completes the trio of blue-gray dials. Unlike the other two, this reference does not get a denim strap–instead, the watch is paired with the composite band typical of the collection. The model fills the place of the black-dial, steel Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A that was discontinued earlier this year. Trading steel for white gold seems to be the trend at Patek Philippe given releases like the white-gold 5811, the successor to the iconic steel 5711. This model is the first Aquanaut to feature the metal. With the upgrade in case material comes an increased retail price of $63,000.

Salmon-Dial In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P-010

Patek Philippe first introduced the 5236P in 2021. Like that watch, the new variant features a platinum case housing the Caliber 31-260 PS QL. Despite its 508 components, the movement remains relatively thin at 5.8mm and offers automatic winding through a platinum micro-rotor. Patek has traded the brushed blue dial of the original In-Line Perpetual Calendar for an opaline salmon, a color that remains very popular among collectors. Of course, the highlight of the watch is the patented in-line calendar aperture at 12 o'clock displaying the day, date, and month in a satisfying sequence.

A New Golden Ellipse

In sharp contrast to the high demand for larger sports watches that peaked only a few years ago, small, vintage dress watches are now trendy. Patek Philippe has no doubt followed the success of older Golden Ellipses on the vintage market and is now seeking to capitalize off the model's popularity. The new 5738/1R measures a modest 34.5 by 39.5mm and has an impressive height of 5.9mm thanks to the ultra-slim Caliber 240. The sunburst, black dial is as minimal as possible, featuring only two lines of text, simple applied hour markers, and no seconds hand. The rose gold bracelet steals the show; over 300 links have been individually mounted by hand to achieve the chain-like effect. The new model has an MSRP of $60,100.

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