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The sought-after watch costs almost $100,000 more than other Dual Time models. Here's why.

https://essential-watches.com/watch/Vacheron-Constantin-7910V-000T-B922-Overseas-Dual-Time-Everest-41mm-in-Titanium-and-Steel-on-Grey-Fabric-Strap-with-Greyish-Blue-Dial/101184

What makes a watch compelling? Is it the strength of the design, the brand name on the dial, or how hard it is to get? Is it the quality of the movement or the material the case is made of? Is it the moments or people a watch is tied to? From design to branding to history, many factors combine to make a timepiece desirable; the weight you give to each component is up to you. After all, the Omega Speedmaster has undoubtedly ended up on many people's wrists due to the simple fact that it went to the Moon. Very few watches excel in every category, but the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Everest" comes awfully close.

A Brief History of the Overseas

The story of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas begins in the 1970s. At this time, quartz technology was rampaging through Swiss watchmaking, leaving many traditional firms scrambling to avoid bankruptcy. The historical high-horology powerhouse of Audemars Piguet was one such firm, and in this time of upheaval, radical action was the only way forward. Shedding the pretensions of the modest, precious-metal dress watches that had carried the brand for centuries, AP enlisted the designer Gerald Genta to create an angular, stainless-steel sports watch. In 1972, the Royal Oak was born. Four years later, Patek Philippe followed suit with the release of the Nautilus. With traditional mechanical watchmaking devalued at least temporarily by quartz, conspicuous luxury was now more important than ever for the old guard of high-end Swiss brands. In 1977, Vacheron Constantin brought out its own flashy sports watch: the 222.

Given the success of integrated-bracelet watches and high auction prices of vintage 222 examples today, it might be shocking to learn that Royal-Oak-style watches were not always popular. 222 production lasted less than a decade, and only a few thousand were made. But Vacheron Constantin was far from done with sports watches. In 1996, the brand launched the Overseas. With its notched bezel inspired by the Maltese cross and tonneau-shaped case, the Overseas was the modern successor to the 222. Vacheron updated the design in 2004, adding the Maltese cross motif to the integrated bracelet. The current iteration of the design debuted in 2016.

The Story of the "Everest"

In 2019, American mountaineer Cory Richards (pictured above) set out to climb Mount Everest for the third time. On his wrist was the Overseas Dual Time "Everest," a one-off prototype made specifically for his expedition. The unique watch, which featured an attractive color scheme and a robust case made of titanium and tantalum, was well received by collectors and later sold at auction for over $100,000. The prototype's popularity prompted Vacheron to produce a 150-piece run of the Dual Time "Everest" in 2021. At the time of its release, the limited-edition model retailed for $31,300. Thanks to the attractiveness of the design, the exclusivity of the release, and the frenzied demand for luxury sports watches in late 2021, the 150 pieces sold quickly. Those that made it to the secondary market have fetched impressively high prices ever since.

The Watch

The distinctive look of the Dual Time "Everest" is the product of several design choices that subtly modify the architecture of the regular-production Overseas. Among the most obvious changes is the use of titanium instead of steel for the majority of the case. The bezel ring below the titanium bezel is still made of steel, replacing the tantalum component on the prototype to retain a subtle two-tone look. Notably, the case also features guards for the crown and pusher, giving the watch a more rugged look befitting its original purpose. The finishing has also been slightly tweaked; the bezel and pusher guards are bead blasted for greater contrast. Other specifications, like the 41mm diameter, 150m of water resistance, and integrated bracelet, are unchanged.

Inside is the Caliber 5110 DT/2, an automatic movement offering 60 hours of power reserve at a frequency of 4Hz. Like most Vacheron movements, this one is hallmarked with the Geneva Seal, guaranteeing exceptional finishing. Like the rest of the watch, the caliber is not a simple copy of movement in the regular Overseas Dual Time–the bridges and baseplate are coated in dark gray NAC to better match the watch's subtle color scheme, and the 22K gold rotor features an illustration of Mount Everest in relief.

While the modified case and caliber are appealing, the captivating dial is likely the most important reason why Dual Time "Everest" is so desirable. The distinctive colorway uses a bluish gray primary color with orange accents in the AM/PM indicator and GMT hand. The dial also features a grained finish not seen in other Overseas Dual Time models. Of course, the "Everest" maintains the date sub-dial for local time and AM/PM indication for home time. To complete the picture, the watch comes with a bluish gray Cordura fabric strap with orange accents that match the color scheme of the dial.

Closing Thoughts

The Overseas Dual Time "Everest" has exclusivity, a strong identity, and a noteworthy story behind it–all crucial components of a desirable timepiece. Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch craze has died down, the appeal of the Dual Time "Everest" seems to be enduring. While the resale prices of regular Overseas models are now roughly the same as their MSRPs, a reality that was unthinkable just two years ago, the Dual Time "Everest" is still valued at over $100,000. That's not just the result of how limited the watch was; it is also the product of careful design choices, leading to one of the best looking and most distinctive sports watches on the market.